What actually closes?
Independent shops, many restaurants, some medical practices, and a surprising number of the specific places you rely on. Supermarkets and chains stay open. The gap you notice is the gap where the good bakery was.
Why do they not stagger it?
Because holiday in France is a season rather than an allowance to be spent tactically, and because staggering only works if customers stagger too. When everyone leaves, staying open serves nobody.
Is this changing?
In tourist cities, yes, somewhat — the closures are shorter and less total than they were. In smaller towns the handwritten sign is alive and well, and it will tell you the exact day in September the bread comes back. That day is usually la rentrée.
Questions, answered
Why does France close in August?
Because most of the country takes holiday in the same few weeks. Independent businesses close for two to four weeks and the country resumes together in early September. It is a synchronised habit rather than a legal requirement.
Is everything really closed in France in August?
No — supermarkets, chains and tourist businesses generally stay open. What closes is the independent layer: neighbourhood bakeries, butchers, small restaurants and some medical practices.
When does France reopen after August?
At la rentrée, at the start of September, when schools, workplaces and public life resume within the same few days.
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