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French vinaigrette, the only dressing in a French house

There is no dressing aisle in this recipe. There is a spoon of mustard and a bowl.

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What is a French vinaigrette?

It is the house dressing of France: mustard, vinegar, oil, salt and pepper, and nothing sweet. It goes on green salad, which in a French meal arrives after the main course, and on most of the cold starters in the French appetizer canon, from grated carrots to leeks.

It is also the first thing I stopped buying. In an American supermarket, dressing is a whole aisle. In a French kitchen it is three bottles you already own and a spoon.

What is the ratio for vinaigrette?

One part vinegar to three parts oil. For a salad for four, that is one tablespoon of vinegar and three of oil, with a rounded teaspoon of Dijon mustard.

The ratio is a starting point and every household moves it. More mustard gives a thicker, sharper dressing that clings. A little more oil softens it for delicate leaves. What does not change is the absence of sugar. A French vinaigrette is sharp on purpose.

Which mustard, vinegar and oil?

Mustard: smooth Dijon, the strong kind. Yellow American mustard will not do the same job, and wholegrain mustard gives a looser dressing.

Vinegar: red wine vinegar is the standard. Sherry vinegar is a good upgrade, and cider vinegar works. Balsamic makes a different, sweeter dressing.

Oil: a neutral oil such as sunflower is traditional in much of France, olive oil in the south, and plenty of cooks use half of each. All olive oil can taste heavy on a plain green salad.

How do you make it?

Put the mustard, vinegar, salt and pepper in the bottom of the salad bowl and stir until the salt has dissolved. Add the oil a little at a time, whisking with a fork, until the dressing turns thick and opaque. Taste it on a leaf, not on the spoon.

Then put the washed, dried leaves on top and leave them there. Toss at the table, just before serving. Dressed salad wilts within minutes, which is why the tossing is the last thing that happens.

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What can you add?

A finely chopped shallot is the classic addition and the one worth making a habit of. A crushed garlic clove, chopped chives or parsley, or a teaspoon of the cooking juices from a roast chicken are all normal.

What you will not find in a French vinaigrette is honey, sugar or maple syrup. If your dressing tastes too sharp, the French fix is more oil, not something sweet.

Why does it matter that the leaves are dry?

Because oil and water do not mix. Wet leaves shed the dressing and water it down at the bottom of the bowl. A salad spinner is the least glamorous and most used tool in a French kitchen for exactly this reason.

Vinaigrette, two countries

A French vinaigretteA bottled American dressing
MadeIn the salad bowl, in two minutesIn a factory
SweetnessNoneUsually some
ThickenerMustardGums and starches
Goes onLeaves, leeks, carrots, lentils, potatoesSalad
KeepsAbout a weekMonths

Questions, answered

What is the ratio of oil to vinegar in French vinaigrette?

The classic ratio is three parts oil to one part vinegar, with a spoonful of Dijon mustard to hold it together. For four people, use three tablespoons of oil, one tablespoon of vinegar and a rounded teaspoon of mustard.

What vinegar do the French use for vinaigrette?

Red wine vinegar is the standard. Sherry vinegar and cider vinegar are common alternatives. Balsamic vinegar makes a sweeter dressing that is not the classic French one.

Does French vinaigrette have sugar or honey?

No. A classic French vinaigrette contains no sugar or honey. If it tastes too sharp, add a little more oil.

How long does homemade vinaigrette last?

About a week in a closed jar in the fridge. Without fresh shallot or garlic it keeps longer. Shake it before using, because it separates.

Why do you put mustard in vinaigrette?

Mustard is an emulsifier. It holds the oil and vinegar together so the dressing thickens and coats the leaves instead of separating.

Still wondering?

Ask my French husband.

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